The Poker Basics course examined in depth the correct strategy for post-flop play in all poker disciplines. In no limit Texas Hold'em cash games, it is crucial to stick by these guidelines as pots can get extremely large very quickly.
You want to make sure you are either going to win them, or get out of them and it is a good idea to refresh your memory on all of the elements of post-flop play.
You need to know how to evaluate your hand post-flop
, including categorizing your hand into "made hands", drawing hands or trash hands. And you also need to know how to read flops
and decide whether it is a draw-heavy ("wet") flop or a "dry" board.
Furthermore, you then need to know how actually to play these hands
Making the "right" play
There are not many deviations from basic post-flop strategy that apply specifically to no limit Hold 'em cash games. Apply the basics and you cannot go too far wrong.
But just as in the pre-flop lessons of this chapter, it is important to add a note about how pot odds and stack sizes can make some plays "right" in a cash game that in a tournament might be debatable.
The next lesson talks more about the concept of "pot odds", which can play an important part in post-flop decision making, especially in a cash game. Here is an introduction by way of an example; you will likely face many more such situations in your cash game play.
Let's say you hold
on a board of
. That means you have a flush draw and a straight draw.
On the turn the pot size is approximately 100 big blinds, and your opponent moves all in for his last 20 BB. You are now pretty sure that he holds a set, so you will need to hit one of your draws to win. You have 13 outs (discounting the
, which would give your opponent a full house).
With 13 outs you have a winning chance of only about 25 per cent, but you need to risk relatively little to win a big pot. (You need to pay 20 BB to win 140 BB.) In a cash game, you should always call in this situation, regardless of the size of your stack. Even if you only have 20 BBs yourself, it is still the right decision. You can re-buy if you lose.
Bear in mind, you will lose this hand and need to re-buy on three out of four occasions. But it is always
the correct play to call. In a tournament it would very much depend on the specific stage, stack sizes, blind levels and closeness to the bubble as to whether you call. In a cash game, these things simply don't factor.
CAN WE HAVE A COUPLE MORE EXAMPLES HERE - MAYBE IN AN HMG?