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99 2NL 6 max vs SB vs CO

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99 2NL 6 max vs SB vs CO - Fri May 25, 2012, 01:28 PM
(#1)
animosama's Avatar
Since: Jan 2011
Posts: 63


SB loose passive 37/13 30 hands
CO tight aggressive 13/13 47 hands

Did I play this hand too aggressively causing me to miss out on value ?

Is this the time I should slow play ?

Should I have made my raise smaller like a min raise to 34c to make them call ?

Last edited by animosama; Fri May 25, 2012 at 01:32 PM..
 
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Fri May 25, 2012, 08:44 PM
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JDean's Avatar
Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,145
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Hi Animosama.

As for your sizing choice:

I think that was fine if you decided this was a good spot not to slow play.

A min raise could actually look far STRONGER than the raise to 50c (just under 2 times more than the lead bet) you made here. A lot of what you might want to think about in terms of your sizing is determined by what you've done with other hands (like draws) in spots like this before; assuming of course your opponents are watching your play.

- If you are showing that you may C/R on a draw here a reasonable amount of the time, your sizing choice was such that you could easily be thought to be making it as a strong semi bluff that you are hoping gets folds.

- If you might C/R semi bluff WEAKER than the 2 times raise you made, then you probably would be better off C/R'ing smaller on your strong hand (if you do it at all).

- If you are unlikely to C/R a draw, or a hand like 66/77/88 here at all, then ANY bet size you select is going to look suspiciously strong.

The fact is you are almost positive you hold the best hand now, so you really should bet whatever is the maximum amount you think may get called. So the "best" sizing really is determined by what your opponents might think the sizing choice you make means. A lot of what they think will be based on what you have shown yourself capable of doing in your previous play.

As for the validity of a slow play versus an immediate C/R:

Your hand in this spot is in a much better slow play spot than the 77 hand where you slow played top set into a calling station and got sucked out on.

The "rules" for slow playing that Sklansky outlines in The Theory of Poker say that you can consider slow playing if:

1) You hold a very strong hand.

9s full on this board gives you the 2nd nut hand, and the only hand ahead of you now is 55.

2) There are not many cards which might fall to beat you.

An 8, 7, or 6 of clubs might beat you, but only if one of the opp's hold exactly an 86c/87c/67c. Any over card to the 9 might beat you, but only if an opp holds a pp larger than 99.

Since you being out drawn on requires VERY SPECIFIC hands to be held by your opponents, as well as 1 of only 8 card ranks falling, the threat to being drawn out on your boat is pretty low.

3) You must feel strongly that by checking, one of your opponents who might otherwise not call a bet may bet himself.

In this case, a 13/13 opp is pretty likely to hold a strong range when he opens raises and gets called in 3 places. For this reason I like your check back to the raiser when you flop a boat. After this though, it gets a bit "tricky".

4) The pot is not already quite large.

Compared to the depth of money in the effective stack, this really is not a very large pot at all. As such, you can take a slight extra "risk" to slow play in hopes of getting more money in.

If the pot were a lot larger in relation to the smallest stack in the hand then that short stack should be much more ready to commit on lesser holdings, and that argues against a slow play because "scare cards" might fall that prevents the short stack from committing later in the hand; that was not the case here though.

In this spot, whether or not you slow play by just flatting the bet is really dependant on what hands you think either (or both) of the opponents might call a C/R on, and what they might fold.

In my opinion, the fact that the lead bettor on the flop is so tight argues that there is a good chance he may not be quite ready to give up on his holding if it is an over pair to the 9 or a big ace flush draw. Also, the SB may be loose enough to either hold a draw he would be unwilling to give up to a C/R, or he might even hold a 5 he is possibly over valuing and slow playing himself. Both these circumstances argue for you to raise immediately, as by doing so you can extract more value.

BUT...

The fact that a C/R immediately will usually show great strength by you in this spot, plus the fact that the 13/13 opp may just be "stabbing" based on his image, the loose player might just be staying on a very weak draw because of the growing pot, AND the fact that you are not facing a lot of threat cards on the turn argues for a flat in hopes either villain might make a better, but still 2nd best, hand on the turn.

By flatting the flop bet, you can elect to possibly donk lead the turn (if a card like an A or a broadway club falls that may have hit an opp), or you can try for a C/R on the turn if/when the aggro tight guy bets into another check by you on something like a broadway card.

You see Animosama, in this spot there are arguements for both an immediate raise and a slow play to the turn, but I think in a spot like this one I'd lean more toward the slow play.

- If the OR were looser in his calling standards I would probably prefer to just lead out, and rely on his looseness to get me a call by a draw or a mid pp.

- If the OR were more passive I would tend to think his hand is stronger and lean more toward the C/R as played.

But in this particular spot it is a bit of a toss up. Simply because your hand is relatively invulnerable, and because an opp this aggro may well not NEED a strong made hand or a strong draw to C bet, I think I'd lean toward the slow play though myself.

Hope it helps.

-JDean


Double Bracelet Winner

Last edited by JDean; Fri May 25, 2012 at 08:55 PM..
 

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