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my graph - Wed Apr 17, 2013, 05:06 PM
(#1)
mike2198's Avatar
Since: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,485


Can anyone tell me if my red lines looks ok i would like to see it break even more like it was at the beginning

Last edited by mike2198; Wed Apr 17, 2013 at 05:11 PM..
 
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Wed Apr 17, 2013, 05:24 PM
(#2)
JWK24's Avatar
Since: Jun 2010
Posts: 24,822
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**moved to more appropriate forum JWK24**

Hi Mike!

I've personally never used PT (I hope to get to if the US players are ever able to play again), so I can't comment, but hopefully some of the members that do use it will reply.

John (JWK24)


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Wed Apr 17, 2013, 08:48 PM
(#3)
ArtySmokesPS's Avatar
Since: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,353
Hi Mike!

I've just been working on a blog to be posted in the next couple of days and it's on this exact topic! When you see my graph, you'll see yours is nothing to worry about.

But here's a quick tip (albeit a facetious one) on how to have a positive redline: Never click the FOLD button.
(I suspect the reason yours was positive/break even at the start is that - like many beginners, myself included - you were playing too many hands and not folding anywhere near often enough).


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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 02:32 AM
(#4)
mimesis.is's Avatar
Since: Jan 2013
Posts: 74
Ideally you'd have both a positive blue and red line, but this would require switching up your playstyle in a dynamic fashion from hand to hand depending on your opponents playstyles, which isn't really feasible without in depth prior knowledge. What's more, trying to maintain a positive red line at microstakes is going to run you into a lot of trouble against the players that call down anything (as well as the nits when they wake up with a good hand). Generally winning players have either a positive red line (LAG) or a positive blue line (TAG,NIT). It's pretty rare to have both.
As long as your green line is heading steadily upward I woulnd't worry too much about it
 
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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 10:32 AM
(#5)
mike2198's Avatar
Since: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,485
Thats good to hear, im not sure why its dropping so fast though for last 2k hands or so because i don t lose more than 10c here and there looking for a flush and il drop top pair and weak kicker to big raises, you can tell when weak players hold better than tptk because they re raise your cbet so its an easy fold

I would say that i make alot where im making people fold with TPTK that's why i don't understand why its such a big drop, i have made big mistakes along the way but the last 2k hands the only time ive lost 50c or more is if i got AA for example yesterday i was ripping it up until about the last 100 hands i played where i weren't hitting and couldn't get them to fold with a cbet but then i got AA twice within 6 hands.

The 1st pocket ACES i got i raised 3bb then i got re raised by a fish on the button i thought this is unusual so i 3 bet him to 36c and he shoves all in, i had to call $2 50 but i cant fold its best hand at the moment he turns over 7c 6c i chuckled, the flop came and he hits 2 pair i fell off my seat im furious right now but i let it go over my hand and fold the next few hands and then get AA again.

This nit raises 3bb i re raise x3 hes all in, im know thinking what has he got i didn't care i had AA but i put him on QQ KK AA either way im calling for $1.60 anyway he had KK and flops a set i was $8 up today but now i lost $3 10 of it, so i go on rush poker with $2 on the table get Aks i flop TPTK i bet 85% of pot he called, turn comes making the flush possible he fires of pot bet, i fold losing 50c so i called it a day

I learnt a lesson yesterday when you arnt hitting nothing just stop playing and dnt get all in with AA even though your well ahead its a shame no1 shoves all in when i got aces and im indestructible lol oh well you have to take the rough with the smooth il have another go today see how it goes, still though that big drop in my red line seems steep because i get people folding before the showdown with TPTK, i was quite sure most of my wins were coming in before the showdown
 
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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 11:19 AM
(#6)
ArtySmokesPS's Avatar
Since: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,353
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike2198 View Post
I learnt a lesson yesterday when you arnt hitting nothing just stop playing and dnt get all in with AA even though your well ahead
With aces you definitely DO want to get all in while you're way ahead. You'll win the hand about 80% of the time. If you don't want to contribute half the pot when you're an 80% favourite, you shouldn't be playing poker!
It's a BIG mistake to slowplay aces and just call or minraise pre-flop, because this will put you in spots where you have no idea of the strength of your opponent's holding. Indeed, you'll allow him to suckout for a cheap price. With AA (and KK too), you should raise and re-raise pre-flop for value and because it removes tricky post-flop decisions. Getting all in pre guarantees that you get your money in good, and that's about all you can hope for. You'll lose to occasional bad beats, but these will come because your opponent made a bad call, not because you made a bad shove. Focus on making good decisions and the money will look after itself.


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Last edited by ArtySmokesPS; Thu Apr 18, 2013 at 11:22 AM..
 
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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 11:35 AM
(#7)
mike2198's Avatar
Since: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,485
Yh arty i know thats what i thought but if im getting destroyed im just shutting the pc down my kk just got destroyed now its just took me 60 hands to claw half of it back.
 
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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 11:38 AM
(#8)
mike2198's Avatar
Since: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,485
We was all in arty pre flop but what are you saying if i was utg i shouldnt raise to 3bb? i should raise more?
 
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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 12:12 PM
(#9)
ArtySmokesPS's Avatar
Since: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,353
Stick with standard raises to disguise the strength of your hand. I'd open for 3bb (6c) with aces UTG and I'd raise 3bb (6c) with 65s in the cutoff.
If you're facing a raise, then a standard re-raise (3-bet) would be - coincidentally - three times the size of the raise. So if villain opened for 6c, you'd 3-bet to 18c.
Once there's a 3-bet, then a standard 4-bet would be 2.5x the 3-bet. So if the 3-bet was 18c, a 4-bet would be about 45c. After that, you can go all in as a 5-bet, as any raise would commit you to stacking off on the flop.
Similarly, if villain is short-stacked, so that the 4-bet would be more than half his stack, then putting him all in with the 4-bet would be standard. It's actually quite rare to see a 4-bet or 5-bet at 2NL that isn't a shove, because most villains are committed to going all in as soon as they've made a 3-bet. (The exception is when 3-betting light, when you're insta-folding to a 4-bet).


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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 12:35 PM
(#10)
mike2198's Avatar
Since: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,485
yh arty thats exactly how im betting i was thinking you was saying raise AA more if your in the pot 1st, you raise 67s on the cutoff that seems abit loose? dnt think ive ever won with 67s lol i do play down to 6 7 s on the button but i tend to min raise them to 4c do you think i should be keeping to 3bb only, i dnt play low pockets in every seat either because your looking to make a set if you play them so i keep close to the button if i open raise them.

I know playing the button is a big advantage but if i played 67s and miss and they check even if you do a cbet they call i geuss if i played a tighter player with that board i could get them to fold the turn at the latest if they had Ax but a loose player i dont know.

If you had AJo on sb and the button raises would you call? ive hit my ace in this situation before and they get me off my hand if they make the pot big
 
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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 12:44 PM
(#11)
mike2198's Avatar
Since: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,485


i thought i would take advantage of a weak player here, it worked but its one of those moves that you dnt feel comfortable with, do you think i should be playing a better kicker with my ACE in this situation
 
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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 12:52 PM
(#12)
ArtySmokesPS's Avatar
Since: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,353
I'll open with 76s (and all pairs) in the cutoff and on the button if the players behind me are tight (I try and pick tabes/seats where I have loose players on my right and tight players on my left) but my ranges vary according to a host of factors. (There'll be more on my blog in due course).

When I open-raise as a steal, I'm usually c-betting the flop when the blinds check to me, but it depends on their tendencies and the board texture. Against ubernits, I'm often not putting another cent in the pot when my steal gets called (unless I smash the flop) because they always have a pair and won't fold unless I barrel. And we all know that barrelling with air at 2NL is just spew.

With AJ in the SB facing a steal, I'll sometimes 3-bet (for value or as a bluff, depending on opponent), sometimes call, but mostly fold. The SB is the worst position of all, so it's often best to not get involved with anything but AK or a pocket pair. AJ in particular is especially troublesome when out of position, so folding is a very good option.


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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 12:58 PM
(#13)
ArtySmokesPS's Avatar
Since: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,353
With the A2 hand, I'm raising, but it has nothing to do with the strength (or lack of strength) of my hand.

When a player completes in the small blind in an unopened pot, he may as well have "I am a fish" as his avatar. Completing the blind is the weakest play in poker. The reason I raise with ATC is that the fish that limps the blind will very often fold to the raise. If he happens to call, then you have position. If he doesn't donk the flop, his hand is very weak and your c-bet success rate will be sky high. It's a "bet with ATC" situation and shows an immediate profit. A half pot bet is sufficient, because villain has had two opportunities to show strength, and he's done the opposite.


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Thu Apr 18, 2013, 01:09 PM
(#14)
mike2198's Avatar
Since: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,485
You make it sound so easy arty yh i know he was weak but the trouble is ive seen them limp any Ax hand and if i have A2 then he would have me beat with any other Ax hand, saying that though i geuss if they call and check the turn you could check behind and hope to go to showdown.
 

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